🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.